Pore filling Walnut?

I've recently embarked on my own guitar project and all is going well so far, however I'm a little confused about the whole grain filling and clear coat process.
I have applied a Walnut veneer to the top of the body, but does this now need to be filled?


 Yep. Walnut has open pores in the grain, much like mahogany (and ash, and Spanish cedar). There are tons of things you can use for pore filling, but I’m a fan of Z-Poxy resin. You can get it here.

Paint schedule?

I'm guess its seal grains - prime- sand- prime again?- sand- colour several coats- sands clear- then wet sand and buff? Do you really need to use a buffer or could it be done by hand?

 If you're doing a trans finish, then no primer. I mainly grain fill (when needed) seal -> color (usually just about 3 coats - you don't need a lot) -> clear -> wet sand -> buff. Some people like to buff by hand; I'm not one of them; you're not going to get all of the fine scratches out by hand.

Curing time?

how long do you leave the clear coat to cure?some people say 1-2 months but on the stew mac site he says you can begin wetsanding in a week?

It really depends on what you're shooting. Catalyzed urethane can be sanded the next day, nitro should be 4 - 6 weeks. Acrylic lacquer can be sanded in less time. With lacquer, the longer you wait, the better.

Clear coats necessary?

Is it necessary to have clear coats on the guitar if you want to buff it etc.? I am currently painting my guitar body with a nitrocellulose olympic white (Cellulose will yellow over time) and I have heard that without clearcoats the yellowing won't be that critical as with clearcoats. Hence why I am wondering if it's necessary to have clearcoats if you want to wetsand and buff.


 The shine of a guitar's finish is from the clear coats, and it's purpose is to provide protection of the color. If you're wanting to avoid the clearcoat yellowing, don't use Nitro. :)